Most people searching for hot tubs for sale start with seat count and jet count. Neither is where the decision goes wrong. What matters is whether your panel can feed it, how well it holds heat in winter, and what the water care asks of you each week. We will tell you which type suits your site, what it will cost to run, and what delivery involves, before you order.
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Dundalk LeisureCraft The Starlight Wood Burning Hot Tub | Cedar Wood-Fired Hot Tub, 233 Gallons
Vendor:LeisureCraftRegular price $5,505.00Sale price $5,505.00 Regular priceUnit price perFree Shipping
Hot Tubs for Sale: Compare Types, Sizes and Running Costs
Hot tubs are sold on jet count, and jet count is close to meaningless. What decides whether you still love the tub in year five is the insulation, whether there is a dedicated circulation pump, what the water care system asks of you every week, and whether the electrical supply you already have matches the tub you are looking at.
We ship freight free across the contiguous 48 states and we will tell you which type fits your site before you order, including when the answer is one we do not carry.
Monthly financing available. Free freight to the contiguous 48 states.
It is the second week of February and the deck is under four inches of snow. You lift the cover, and the water is exactly where you left it at 102 degrees, because it never went anywhere. Ten minutes later your shoulders have come down from around your ears for the first time since Monday, and the only decision left in the day is how long to stay in.
Start here: the six decisions that pick your hot tub
Most hot tub sites hand you one flat filter list that mixes seating count, shell type and water care as if they were the same kind of choice. They are not. A tub can be rotomolded and 110 volt and above ground and saltwater all at once. These six run independently, and answering them in this order saves you from the two expensive mistakes: buying a tub your electrical supply cannot feed, and buying a size you will not fill.
- Shell and construction. Inflatable, rotomolded, acrylic, wood fired or swim spa. This sets the price band and most of the running cost.
- Power. 110 volt plug in, 240 volt hardwired, or no electricity at all. This is the single biggest fork in your installed cost.
- Installation. Sitting above ground, flush mounted into a deck, or built in. Above ground is the only one that stays movable.
- Water care. Chlorine, bromine, a saltwater system, or drain and refill. This is what you actually do every week for the next decade, and it is the same decision people face on an outdoor cold plunge.
- Seating count. Two through eight or more. Almost everyone over buys here.
- Seat layout. Whether one of those seats is a full length lounger, and whether you want that.
If you only ask a retailer one question, ask this one
Does it have a dedicated circulation pump, and what is its wattage? A tub without one has to fire its big two or three kilowatt jet pump for hours a day just to push water through the filter. A tub with one runs a small pump continuously at a hundred to two hundred watts and only wakes the big pump when you press the button. It is the most cost relevant spec in the category and it appears on almost no product page.
Types of hot tub, and what each one actually is
Prices below are the ranges the market sits in as of August 2026, gathered from live listings and published cost surveys. They move, and they are here to set expectations rather than to quote you.
A drop stitch vinyl wall with an integrated pump and heater. The bubbles come from an air blower, not from water jets, so there is no targeted pressure on a muscle. Heat up runs 12 to 24 hours and heat retention is poor.
Renters, seasonal use, and finding out whether you will actually use one.
Tub, cabinet and base molded as one piece of polyethylene, almost always 110 volt. Fewer jets and a weaker pump than acrylic, and on many models the heat and the jets take turns rather than running together.
Cabins, decks and any house whose panel has no spare capacity.
Vacuum formed acrylic over a fiberglass or ABS backing in a framed cabinet, 240 volt. The tier you buy shows up in the insulation, the pump count and the warranty, not in the first soak.
Most buyers who want real hydrotherapy and will use it year round.
Where the acrylic money actually goes
Acrylic spans a wide band and the tiers are real, but they are not where the showroom points. An entry acrylic, roughly $5,000 to $8,000, typically has partial insulation, a single pump, and no dedicated circulation pump, which means that big pump runs on a timer to filter. A mid tier tub, roughly $7,000 to $13,000, buys you full foam or multi layer insulation, dual pumps, a circulation pump that filters continuously at low wattage, better filtration, and ozone or UV as standard. Above roughly $15,000 you are paying for seat ergonomics, jet engineering, brand and dealer service rather than for hotter or cleaner water.
The gap between entry and mid does not show up on the first evening. It shows up in the electricity bill and the repair bill. A poorly insulated tub in a cold climate can cost more over five years of running than the money you saved at purchase, so ask for the insulation specification rather than the jet count.
Wood fired, and swim spas
Wood fired tubs, roughly $4,000 to $12,000, use a wood stove instead of an element. No breaker, no pump, no power bill, and no thermostat either. They suit off grid sites, cabins, and anyone who wants the fire to be part of the thing. It is the type we currently stock, in the Dundalk LeisureCraft Starlight, a 233 gallon Canadian cedar tub with an internal firebox.
Swim spas are a different product wearing the same word. A 12 to 20 foot counter current vessel, usually $20,000 to $50,000 for the unit and $26,000 to $75,000 by the time it is installed on the engineered pad it needs. The decision that matters is not brand or length, it is single zone against dual zone. A single zone unit holds the whole vessel at one temperature, so you cannot swim comfortably and soak comfortably on the same evening. If you want both, price the dual zone version.
If the appeal is heat rather than water, a traditional sauna reaches temperature faster and needs no water care at all. For completeness: in ground gunite spas, usually poured as part of a pool build at $8,000 to $25,000 plus installation, are a contractor project rather than something anyone ships you.
The inflatable fact almost no retailer prints: on most 110 volt inflatable tubs the heater and the blower cannot run at the same time. Turn the bubbles on and the heating stops. That single design limit explains a large share of the one star reviews in that category, and it is worth knowing before you assume an inflatable is a cheap way to test the idea.
110 volt or 240 volt: the decision that sets your install cost
This is the fork that decides whether your hot tub arrives and works, or arrives and waits three weeks for an electrician and a permit.
| 110 to 120 volt, plug and play | 240 volt, hardwired | |
|---|---|---|
| Circuit | Dedicated 15 or 20 amp GFCI | 50 or 60 amp GFCI subpanel, hardwired |
| Electrician | Often, but a small job | Always, and usually a permit |
| Typical install | $0 to $600 | $1,900 to $4,200, $2,300 average (HomeAdvisor, June 2026) |
| Heater | About 1 to 1.5 kW | About 4 to 5.5 kW |
| Heat up from cold | 12 to 24 hours | 4 to 8 hours |
| Jets and heat together | Often alternate on smaller models | Run together |
"Plug and play" does not mean any outlet. It means a dedicated, GFCI protected 15 or 20 amp 120 volt circuit. Not a shared kitchen circuit, not a garage outlet with the freezer on it, and never an extension cord. Plenty of plug and play buyers still need an electrician. They just need a much cheaper one.
The practical way to decide: find out what your panel has spare before you shortlist tubs. It is the same constraint that decides between a plug in and a hardwired infrared sauna. If a 240 volt run means a trench across the yard or a panel upgrade, that cost belongs in the comparison from the start, and it is frequently the thing that moves a buyer to a rotomolded tub or to a wood fired one.
What a hot tub actually costs to run
Running cost is the number this category almost never publishes, so here it is with every input sourced.
The last published field test range for portable spa energy use is roughly 1,910 kWh a year in standby and about 2,500 kWh a year all in (California Energy Commission efficiency filing, on field data collected up to 2014, so spas built to the later standards will use less). The US residential average electricity price was 18.44 cents per kilowatt hour in May 2026 (US Energy Information Administration). Multiply those together and a typical tub costs about $29 to $38 a month in electricity.
Third party figures disagree, and it is worth seeing the spread rather than one number. Jacuzzi publishes roughly $10 to $21 a month for its own efficient models. HomeAdvisor gives $20 to $60. A retail electricity provider gives $30 to $100 using a Texas rate. The honest range to plan around is $20 to $60 a month, and where you land inside it is decided by insulation, climate, and whether the tub has that circulation pump.
| Ongoing cost | Typical | What moves it |
|---|---|---|
| Electricity | $20 to $60 a month | Insulation quality, climate, cover condition, circulation pump |
| Chemicals | From about $100 a year (HomeAdvisor, June 2026) | Bather load, water care system, how often you drain |
| Filters | Replaced every 1 to 2 years | Cartridge area, how often you rinse them |
| Water | A few dollars per fill | Volume, and whether your utility bills sewer on metered water |
| Total annual maintenance | About $570 average, $240 to $900 (HomeAdvisor, June 2026) | Everything above, plus the occasional part |
The number to compare on
Take the purchase price gap between two tubs and divide it by the monthly running difference. A tub that costs $2,000 more but runs $25 a month cheaper has paid the gap back in under seven years and then keeps paying, and hot tubs bought well last longer than that. This is why the insulation specification and the circulation pump matter more than the jet count on the sticker.
Seating, loungers, and the size mistake most buyers make
Almost everybody buys one size up from what they use. The tub gets bought for the party you imagine and then used by two people on a Tuesday.
Seat counts are manufacturer counts, and they assume everyone is sitting upright and nobody minds touching knees. A tub sold as six person is comfortable for four adults and sociable for two. Ask how many people will be in it on an ordinary weeknight, buy for that, and treat the maximum as a party trick rather than a spec.
Size costs you twice. A bigger shell holds more water, so it costs more to heat and more to keep hot, every day, forever. It also takes a bigger footprint, a stronger base and often a wider access route to get it into position. There is no version of this where the larger tub is cheaper to live with.
The lounger question
A lounger is a full length reclined seat with its own jet layout. People love them or resent them and there is not much middle ground. For: it is the only seat that works your whole back and legs at once, and in one or two person households it is often the seat that gets used every time. Against: it takes the room of about one and a half upright seats, so a lounger costs you a seat, and buoyant people find they have to brace to stay down in it.
The rule that holds up: if the tub is mainly for one or two people, a lounger is usually worth the seat it costs. If it is for a family of four or more, all upright seats will serve you better.
Water care: chlorine, bromine, saltwater or drain and refill
This is the part of ownership you actually do, roughly weekly, for as long as you own the tub. Choose it deliberately rather than inheriting whatever the dealer stocks.
Dose, test, adjust. Bromine is more stable in hot water and gentler on skin for many people; chlorine is cheaper and acts faster. The CDC's guidance for hot tub water is chlorine at 3 parts per million or above, or bromine at 4 to 8, with pH between 7.0 and 7.8, checked with test strips.
Anyone happy with a five minute weekly routine.
A cell generates chlorine from dissolved salt, so you dose far less often and many people find the water feels softer. It is still chlorine, not chlorine free. Cells are a wear part and get replaced, and salt is harder on some metal components.
Buyers who will pay more upfront to touch it less often.
Used where there is no pump or filtration to hold a sanitizer level. Use the water for a stretch, drain it, refill. Simple, but it is a different job rather than a smaller one, and leaves and debris end a fill faster than bathers do.
Off grid, seasonal and wood fired tubs.
Two supporting systems worth understanding, because they are sold as if they replace sanitizer and they do not. Ozone and UV both reduce how much sanitizer you need by treating water as it circulates. Neither holds a residual in the tub itself, which is the thing that protects the next person in. Treat them as a way to dose less, not as a way to dose nothing.
Warm still water is the risk, whatever the system. The CDC identifies warm water, slow or stagnant movement, biofilm and inadequate disinfectant as the conditions that let bacteria multiply in a hot tub, and that hot tubs accelerate the decay of disinfectants. Whatever system you choose, the discipline is the same: test it, keep a residual, and keep it covered.
Buying a hot tub online, without sitting in it first
Every showroom will tell you to wet test. It is genuinely good advice and we are not going to pretend otherwise. Here is what to do instead when the tub you want is not in a showroom near you.
What a wet test actually tells you is narrow but real: whether the seats fit your body, whether the lounger holds you down, and whether the jets land where your shoulders are. Almost everything else people think they learn from a wet test, water feel, noise, heat, is the same across well built tubs at the same tier.
- Measure your own body against the seat depth. Ask for the seat depth and the water depth at the shoulder, not just the tub height. Tall buyers float out of shallow seats and short buyers cannot reach the footwell in deep ones.
- Ask where the jets sit relative to a specific height. "Shoulder jets" is not a specification. The distance from the seat pan to the shoulder jets is.
- Get the insulation specification in writing, and the circulation pump wattage. These two predict your running cost better than anything you would feel in a showroom.
- Read the warranty in two halves. Shell warranties are long because shells almost never fail. The parts that fail are pumps, heaters and control packs. Find the component term, which is often 1 to 5 years, and treat that as the real number.
- Confirm the freight terms before you buy. Curbside is the default in this category. Who moves it from the curb, and how, is the question that ambushes people.
And the honest counterweight: if you have a genuine physical need, a bad back, a specific shoulder, a mobility limitation, and a showroom within reach carries something comparable, go and sit in it. Buying online is the right call for most people, not for everyone.
Delivery, site prep, and who fixes it in year four
Two questions that decide how ownership actually feels, and that are easy to leave until it is too late to change your mind.
Getting it into position
- Freight is curbside. The truck brings it to the end of your drive on a pallet. Moving it from there is arranged separately, and a full size acrylic tub is several hundred pounds of awkward. White glove delivery exists for exactly this, and the same freight rules apply across our chiller equipped plunges.
- Measure the narrowest point of the route, not the tub. Gates, side returns, fence posts and the turn at the corner of the house are what stop deliveries, and a tub is usually walked on its side.
- The base has to be level and it has to drain. A concrete pad, a properly built spa pad or a reinforced deck. Bare soil and pea gravel move, and a tub that settles out of level puts the shell under a load it was not designed for.
- Filled weight is the number for a deck, not shipping weight. Water alone is about 8.3 pounds a gallon, so a 400 gallon tub is over 3,300 pounds of water before you add the tub or the people. Ask a builder about your joists and span before it arrives, not after.
- Plan the equipment door. Whichever side the pump and control pack live behind needs clearance for a service technician to work, and people routinely build decking that seals it in.
Who services it
This is the real question behind buying a hot tub from anyone other than a local dealer, and it deserves a straight answer. A tub bought nationally is supported by the manufacturer's warranty network and by parts, not by a van from the store you bought it from. In practice that means: warranty work is arranged through the manufacturer, common wear parts like filters, covers, pumps and control packs are orderable, and routine servicing is done by any competent local spa technician, who does not need to have sold you the tub to work on it.
What you should check before you buy from anybody, us included, is whether the brand actually has a US parts and warranty operation, and how long component coverage runs. A brand with no parts channel is the one that strands you, whether you bought it online or twenty minutes away.
Why are the cheap hot tubs cheap?
It is the question we are asked most about this category, and one almost nobody answers straight. So, straight.
The tubs you see at warehouse clubs and big box stores are not fakes and they are not badly made for what they are. They are cheaper for four reasons, and only one of them is about quality.
- Volume purchasing. A retailer committing to thousands of units gets a price no specialist can match, and passes some of it on. That part is real and it is in your favor.
- Simplified feature sets. Fewer shell colors, fewer cabinet options, one jet configuration. Manufacturing a narrow range is cheaper than manufacturing a wide one.
- Thinner specification where you cannot see it. This is the one to actually check. Insulation, pump quality and whether there is a circulation pump are the usual places the cost comes out, and they are exactly the specs that decide your running cost.
- Service is a phone number, not a van. The genuine trade off. There is usually no local technician attached to the sale, so warranty work runs through a call center and a dispatched contractor.
It is the same question worth asking about any big ticket recovery purchase, which is why we publish the reasoning rather than a spec sheet on why buy from us. None of that makes them the wrong choice. If you want a tub for a rental property or a first tub to find out whether you will use it, a big box unit can be a sensible purchase. What you should not do is compare it to a mid tier tub on price alone, because the specs that differ are the ones that show up on your power bill and in year four. Ask for the insulation spec and the component warranty term on both, and then compare.
What the research on hot water immersion actually shows
The standard we hold ourselves to is the whole body of evidence, not the flattering part of it, so the trials that found nothing are here too.
Sleep, which is the best supported of these. A 2019 systematic review and meta-analysis in Sleep Medicine Reviews found that warm water bathing at 104 to 108.5 degrees Fahrenheit, taken one to two hours before bed for as little as 10 minutes, was associated with improved self rated sleep quality and sleep efficiency and with falling asleep faster. The studies looked at baths and showers rather than hot tubs, and the authors note the research is still limited. (Haghayegh and colleagues, Sleep Medicine Reviews 2019;46:124 to 135)
Muscle soreness after exercise, which is mixed. A 2021 meta-analysis of 32 randomized controlled trials found heat applied within an hour of exercise reduced delayed onset muscle soreness, strongest from hot packs on specific muscles rather than whole body immersion. Against that, a 2025 randomized trial of 10 minute immersions at 104 degrees found no measurable acceleration of recovery. (Wang and colleagues, Physical Therapy in Sport 2021;48:177 to 187; Wellauer and colleagues, PLoS One 2025;20(5):e0322416)
Cardiovascular measures, where the popular claim does not hold up. A 2016 University of Oregon trial found improved blood vessel function after eight weeks of hour long immersions in 20 young sedentary adults under supervision, and it is the study this industry quotes. A 2025 meta-analysis of 20 randomized controlled trials found no significant pooled effect on most cardiometabolic markers, with a modest systolic blood pressure reduction appearing only among people who already had cardiovascular risk. We are not going to tell you a hot tub is good for your heart. (Brunt and colleagues, Journal of Physiology 2016;594(18):5329 to 5342; Hamaya and colleagues, American Journal of Preventive Cardiology 2025;23:101082)
Pairing it with cold. A 2013 meta-analysis of 18 trials found alternating hot and cold immersion reduced muscle soreness compared with resting, though the authors note every trial carried a high risk of bias and that the average reduction was smaller than the threshold at which people typically notice a difference in pain. Other reviews find contrast is no more effective than cold water alone. Sessions ran roughly 6 to 15 minutes in total, about a minute at a time in each. (Bieuzen and colleagues, PLoS One 2013;8(4):e62356; Higgins and colleagues, Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research 2017;31(5):1443 to 1460)
The same standard applies across the store, and it is set out on our medical disclaimer. Four claims common in this category that we will not repeat: that hot water flushes lactic acid, that alternating hot and cold creates a vascular pump, that heat boosts immunity, and that any of it detoxifies anything. The first two are contradicted by direct measurement rather than merely unproven.
Temperature and who should ask a doctor first. The CPSC advises that hot tub water should never exceed 104 degrees Fahrenheit, and that 100 degrees is considered safe for a healthy adult. It advises that people with a medical history of heart disease, circulatory problems, diabetes or blood pressure problems get their physician's advice before using a hot tub, that people taking medications which induce drowsiness should not use one, and that pregnant women stick to the 100 degree maximum. Hot water immersion is a wellness practice, not a treatment for any medical condition.
Which hot tub suits which buyer
Four common situations, and what suits each one.
No spare panel capacity
Your electrician quoted four figures for a 240 volt run, or the panel is full. Look at rotomolded plug and play first, and price the electrical work into any acrylic tub before you compare it. If the site has no service at all, wood fired removes the question entirely.
Cold climate, year round use
This is where insulation stops being a spec sheet line. Ask for full foam or multi layer insulation, a hard cover with a real R value, and a dedicated circulation pump. Buying a cheaper tub here is the most expensive decision available to you.
See financing options ›Contrast, not just heat
If the hot tub is going in beside a cold plunge or a sauna, the hot side does not need to be the biggest tub on the lot. Two seats used properly beats six seats used once a month, and the money is better spent on the cold half.
Who should slow down: anyone buying purely on jet count, anyone sizing for a party rather than a Tuesday, and anyone who has not yet found out what their electrical panel can actually supply. Those three account for most of the regret in this category, and all three are free to fix before you order.
Buying a hot tub for a business
A hot tub used by the public is a different regulatory animal from the same tub in a back garden. Gyms, spas, hotels, retreats and clinics are generally treated as public bathing facilities under state and county health codes, and those codes are written around equipment rather than intentions.
What the codes we have read require: continuous recirculation and filtration, a maintained disinfectant residual, a minimum water turnover rate, and an operating permit before anyone gets in. Public health guidance adds automatic disinfectant feed, testing records and signage. What plainly cannot meet any of it is a tub with no pump and no filtration, which includes wood fired and drain and refill designs, because a turnover rate cannot be calculated where there is no filtration circuit.
Short term rentals sit in a gray area worth knowing about. The CDC notes that private short term rental properties are not subject to the same public health regulations as commercial ones, but its 2026 report on a rental hot tub linked to two Legionnaires cases records that the county closed it anyway under local sanitary code. Exempt from the pool code is not the same as no exposure.
Tell us the setting before you pick the tub
Commercial specification starts with your health department's requirements and works backward to the equipment, not the other way round. Tell us what the room is and who uses it, and we will tell you what will pass, including when the answer is that we are not the right supplier.
Commercial and B2B
Hot tub buyer questions
How long does a hot tub last?
There is no published standard here, so treat any single number with suspicion, including ours. What is consistent across the industry is the pattern rather than the years: the shell almost never fails, which is why shell warranties are long and generous, and the equipment does. Pumps, heaters and control packs are what wear out. That is why the component warranty term matters far more than the shell term when you compare two tubs, and why a brand with a real US parts channel is worth more than a longer number on the brochure.
Is it cheaper to leave a hot tub on all the time or turn it off between uses?
Leave it on. A hot tub loses heat slowly through insulation and a closed cover, so holding 102 degrees costs relatively little. Reheating a cooled tub means running a 4 to 5.5 kilowatt heater for hours, and on a 110 volt tub it can take most of a day. The exception is a genuinely long absence, several weeks or more, where dropping the temperature makes sense. Turning it off between weekend uses almost always costs more, not less, and it means the tub is never ready when you want it.
Do I need an electrician for a plug and play hot tub?
Often yes, but for a much smaller job. Plug and play means 110 to 120 volts, not any outlet. It needs a dedicated, GFCI protected 15 or 20 amp circuit with nothing else on it, and never an extension cord. If you already have a suitable dedicated outlet within reach, you may need nobody. If you do not, an electrician runs one, which is a fraction of the cost of a 240 volt install. Permit requirements vary by jurisdiction, so check with your local building department rather than assuming.
Is a saltwater hot tub worth it?
It depends on how much you value not dosing. A saltwater system generates chlorine from dissolved salt, so you handle chemicals far less often and many people prefer how the water feels. It is still chlorine, not chlorine free. Against that: it costs more upfront, the generator cell is a wear part that gets replaced periodically, and salt is harder on some metal components, so check what the manufacturer warrants when a salt system is fitted. If a weekly five minute routine does not bother you, traditional sanitizer is cheaper and simpler.
Is a 2 person hot tub worth it?
For a lot of households it is the right answer rather than a compromise. A smaller tub holds less water, so it heats faster, costs less to run and needs a smaller pad. Most tubs get used by one or two people on an ordinary evening regardless of how many seats they have. The case against is resale and flexibility: a two seat tub genuinely cannot host, so if you entertain often or have a family of four, size up. Buy for your Tuesday, not for your birthday.
Can a swim spa be used as a hot tub?
Yes, but the honest answer depends on whether it is single zone or dual zone, and that is the decision that matters more than brand or length. A single zone swim spa holds the entire vessel at one temperature, so you are choosing daily between a comfortable swim and a comfortable soak. A dual zone unit has a separate hot section with its own heater, which genuinely gives you both, and costs meaningfully more to buy and to run. If you want both uses out of one machine, dual zone is the version to price.
Where is the best place to buy a hot tub online?
Judge any online seller on four things. Whether they are an authorized dealer for the brand, because that is what makes the manufacturer warranty valid. Whether they will tell you the insulation specification and the circulation pump wattage rather than only the jet count. What the freight terms actually are, since curbside is the default in this category and moving it from the curb is a separate arrangement. And whether they will tell you when their product is the wrong fit. We would rather lose a sale than sell someone a tub their panel cannot feed.
Why do people put a tennis ball in a hot tub?
To soak up body oils, lotion and sunscreen off the surface of the water. Left floating, the felt collects the film that otherwise ends up in your filter or as a ring on the shell. It is a cheap, widely used trick among owners rather than a manufacturer instruction, so treat it as a supplement to filtration rather than a replacement for it, and swap the ball out when it looks grubby.
How long should you stay in a hot tub?
There is no authoritative maximum time for consumer hot tub use that we can point you to. The commonly repeated fifteen to twenty minutes is industry convention rather than a regulator's rule or a research finding, so check your own manufacturer's manual for what they specify. What is published is about temperature: the CPSC advises that hot tub water should never exceed 104 degrees Fahrenheit, and that 100 degrees is considered safe for a healthy adult. In the sleep research, sessions as short as 10 minutes were enough to show an effect, so long soaks are not required for the benefit people are usually after.
What size hot tub do I need?
Start from how many people will be in it on an ordinary weeknight, not from the maximum you can imagine. Manufacturer seat counts assume everyone sitting upright and nobody minding contact, so a six person tub is comfortable for four. Then check three physical limits before you shortlist: the narrowest point of the route into your yard, whether your base is level and can carry the filled weight, and what your electrical panel can supply. Size costs you at purchase and then every single day in water volume you are paying to keep hot.
Where to go next
A hot tub is usually one half of something. Here is the rest of it.
Not sure which type fits your site?
Tell us what your panel can supply, what the access to the yard is like, and how many people will actually be in it on a Tuesday. Those three answers narrow the category faster than any filter, and we will tell you honestly when the right answer is not something we sell.
Call (888) 500-5675